Thus, April 18 - In Search of Picathartes



Wildlife of Aboabo

  
 We got up at 3:30, packed with bags outside the door by 4:30 and left at 5 AM.  We drove to the north side of Kakum National Park to Aboabo and birded there until 11 and then continued on to Asso Faso for lunch at a roadside restaurant.  We entered their A/C room and found a table surrounded by enormous upholstered chairs in an almost La-Z-Boy position!  I felt like a little kid as I couldn’t put my feet on the ground.  The walls were decorated with wild curlicues of tinsel and shiny ribbons.  We had the standard buffet of rices, curries and French fries, and then got a plate of Kenkey, a Ghanaian dish of fermented corn (I think the entire cob) mashed smooth and then baked in a banana leaf and sliced.  I can’t say I really enjoyed it as it has an acidic taste, but managed some sprinkled with sugar - Not the traditional way of eating it!
 
Kenkey

Well-decorated lunch room!

After lunch we drove to the village of Bonkro, a rather remote village of huts, but filled with very friendly people who greeted us warmly.  They receive some income from fees people pay in order to access the nesting sight of the Picathartes, a quail-size forest bird with a bare yellow head, black back and white undersides.  It nests on rocky cliffs and is extremely shy and wary.  We started on the trail at 3 PM just as it started to rain.  We had to hike with umbrellas through dense woods ending in a steep climb of a rocky and muddy slope 500’ high.  I found it really rough going and got to the top after most of the others.  Two benches had been set up at the base of a large rock under which the birds nest.  The idea is to arrive in the late afternoon and sit very quietly, hoping to catch a glimpse of the birds.  It had stopped raining by then and shortly some of us got a glimpse.  As we were all spread out on the bench it was very difficult to give directions as to where the birds were.  Finally one stepped out on the ledge and we all got a great view of this weird and beautiful bird!







Waiting for Picathartes

Jenny and I decided that that was enough and we started down very slowly with the assistance of James and Andrew.  It was slipping and sliding but we made it without a spill!  The others caught up with us at the bottom which was a relief as I was afraid that they would have to come down that dangerous trail in the dark! The little kids of the village came running over to us and insisted on giving us “high fives” which was really cute!
 
Football game















Local butcher shop

Just as we left it started to pour once again and we drove north for another two hours before we got to the Royal Basin Hotel, just south of the city of Kumasi, for the night.  We were all still really soaked and had to spread out all our gear in our rooms and  shower, thankfully with hot water(!), in order to get ready for a late dinner.  We did the list, ate and just before collapsing into our rooms, Bob couldn’t find his bird list - some panic as that is his record of the trip!

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